I am using an under-mount apron front sink in our renovation and could not find any detailed information on how to prep for this type of sink. I called Z Counterform for help with this they have all the answers — and found out I could do a slide in sink installation — meaning I could slide in the sink after the countertop pour was completely finished.
I dry fitted the sink to determine where to cut the plywood base — confirming that the concrete would be almost flush with the inside edge of the sink. I used the knockouts that Z Counterform carries for both my faucet and my soap dispenser.
I also put coconut oil on the knockouts before installing them — which I would recommend in helping them come out smoothly as they are a very tight fit! After installing the substrate, it was time to install the forms. Most corners were very easy to install with simple miter cuts using a miter saw. This applied to both inside and outside corners. If you want a detailed look at all the different corners involved, I put together a quick video. Make sure and take EXTRA time and then go back and take more time to ensure that you tape up or caulk anywhere that liquid could escape think corners — but also the underside of cabinet anywhere you used a flush form.
The important thing here is to not tape on the inside edges of the forms, as that would show once you removed the forms. The next step was securing the fiberglass mesh. This was the simplest and most straightforward process. This is what gives the concrete structure and protects it from cracks. Okay… almost done! The last step in prep is to protect your cabinets and floors with some plastic tarps.
Things get messy folks. I did not tape down my plastic as securely as I should have… take note — tape every seam and corner unless you want to spend extra time cleaning up after.
A few things to make mention before I get into the pouring process. You will want to use a powerful corded drill. I spent some time looking into bar height stools and found out that they were silly expensive.
We lucked out and all four of these chairs were in the as-is section of Ikea: one was a return and the other three were from the showroom display. Look at how nice the countertop looks! Just as a reminder, we went from this:. Hi Stephanie — I believe we used the low gloss for it. The countertop lines up with the edge of the upper cabinets so that we can. We generally install our countertops on custom cabinets made of in. The total depth needs to be as close to 58 inch as possible while not being under.
Fits perfectly with your IKEA frames. I like to first set the counter in place then look at it from below to see how much gap there is between the cabinet and counter. To allay your fears check out this old thread on this topic. Many residential professionals turn to IKEA cabinets when working with a tight budget. Choose between the many colors and expressions to find the perfect look.
Masonry work to remove external window for cabinet over toilet. Plywood on the back sides and top. Sign Up. Follow Unfollow. Follow Following. Follow Following Unfollow. I faced the dilemma that i am sure many apartment dwellers face today, how do i maximise storage and entertain at the same time without losing the valuable space inside my 2 bedroom apartment. My theory was to create a kitchen island that could house a large amount of storage while at the same time act as a dining table.
The main critical points of the brief were it had to be of Caesar Stone or stone quality and feel, and it had to be affordable and most of all original. After a lot of research i came to a solution. Materials Used. Concrete Countertop Lmm x Wmm x 50mm Deep. Finished Product. First the cabinets were assembled, I used an ikea model, nice and simple with good draw options. I used 2 x mm and 1x mm to make the island I required. Total length mm. Above picture shows the cabinets with draws assembled, I used a temporary melamine sheet to act as the top while I make the concrete top.
Top of IKEA bench which the top will rest on. Re-enforced base box constructed to hold the weight of the concrete, plynth legs housed just outside box to clip white plynth panels on once concrete is installed.
Cabinet legs do not have to carry any weight at all, just screw them down to a firm tension to hold the plinth board. In order to construct the concrete panels i had a very good reference book called Concrete Countertops Made simple , you can buy off Amazon or concrete network. There would be more efficient ways to do this i am sure but i had already committed to this method.
I think if you added screwable threaded metal feet on each leg you could get a very accurate level. Frame Mould for top panel was constructed out of melamine, 50mm deep, top m x mm Make sure you countersink all the screws as you have to brace with more melamine and need a flat surface. Side Panel Mould with black silicon to create a natural bevel edge.
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